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Rome, Orvieto, & Tivoli
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DAY 3
Beginning about sundown, once again we ate a several-course Italian meal outdoors under the grapevine arbor. We enjoyed celebrating Mark Crews' birthday with an Italian cake. Our evening meal finished shortly before 11 p.m.
DAY 4 For our afternoon free time, five of us were transported about 2½ miles to Villa Delle Rose Puglia by Mark Story at 12:30. There the property owner, Rina, guided us around her olive grove, which has a great view of the Adriatic Sea. She provided us a very educational tasting of olive oil made from her trees. Then in the shade of an olive tree she presented us with a delicious lunch all created from local ingredients. After Mark Story returned to pick us up about 3:30, we continued to enjoy the experience. We purchased some lavender oil that was produced from Rina's lavender fields. By 4:30 we were back in our villas. Our tour group met at 6:30 p.m. to ride into Polignano a Mare. We enjoyed the most awesome experience of a six-course meal at Ristorante Grotta Palazzese, built in a sea cave with a terrific view of the Adriatic Sea. After the meal our group was transported in two vehicles back to the parking site. A few of us were privileged to share the ride with the restaurant owner, who graciously answered our many questions about his very unique restaurant.
By 10:20 we were all back in our rooms. As usual for the two of us, we took sleeping pills for the 3rd night in a row. Years ago we found that taking sleeping pills the first 3 nights helps us avoid jet lag in an overseas country. We repeat this practice for our first 3 nights after we return home. Otherwise the 7-hour time difference with Italy would take at least a week to overcome.
DAY 5 A local guide led us for a couple hours among the unique trulli houses with their cone-shaped stone roofs. Except for a brief, light rain, it was a pleasurable walk. After a quick light lunch we traveled to Matera. We were in our rooms at the Sant'Angelo Luxury Hotel around 3:30. At 4 o'clock the two of us climbed about a hundred steps with Mark Story. We stopped for gelato when we reached the top. Mark left us at the cathedral where we paid a quick visit inside. Admission cost €4 each. We were a bit surprised that we two found our way back to our hotel room without making a wrong turn onto any of the intersecting stairways. Our group met for refreshments on a hotel terrace at 5:30. At 7:30 most of us climbed the stairway to Ristorante La Gattabuia (which translates as "the dark cat restaurant"). Three of our folks rode in a taxi to the restaurant. After our meal, everyone walked down the dimly lit stairs to return to our rooms about 10:30.
DAY 6 Matera, with its ancient cave houses and rugged limestone cliffs, has been used in several movies for biblical landscapes, historical scenes, and dramatic action backdrops. It's most notable inclusion was in 2004 in Mel Gibson's "The Passion of the Christ." The crucifixion scene was on a mountaintop across the valley from our hotel. The 2021 James Bond movie, "No Time to Die," transformed the historic piazzas and winding staircases into a stunning backdrop for high-speed Aston Martin car chases, motorcycle stunts, and dramatic romantic scenes. We stopped to look inside Santa Lucia alle Malve church. It was carved out of the hillside stone in the 9th century. It was evident that the original style was Greek Orthodox then repurposed as Roman Catholic. One of its unique features is that people were never buried beneath the church, but had been buried above the church. The cave is now used as a place of worship only when the feast day of Santa Lucia is celebrated on 13 December. We also stopped to investigate an ancient house cave dwelling site called Casa Grotta del Vicinato. It was meticulously decorated with everything one would find when it had been occupied, including replicas of a donkey and chickens kept inside the home.
At 6 p.m. we joined the Crews and Walkers for a one-hour tuk-tuk ride around Matera. We squeezed three people into the backseat of each vehicle. Upon return to our hotel, the six of us walked to a nearby trattoria where we enjoyed our evening meal together. We were back in our rooms by 8:30.
DAY 7 We met our tour group in the hotel lobby at 7:15, then walked past the amphitheater to Il Ristoro dei Templari (which translated means "The Refreshment of the Templars") for our evening meal together in Lecce. We were back in our room shortly after 10 o'clock.
DAY 8
It was barely sprinkling when we began searching for a restaurant for lunch. We were glad we chose to eat indoors when a downpour began with lots of wind and loud thunder. The rain completely stopped shortly after we finished our meal. Around 3 o'clock, Jeannie left with Linda, Leah, and Teresa to shop. Michael went searching for gelato. At 7 o'clock we walked a few blocks with Mark and Roxi Crews to a trattoria for supper and conversation. We were back at the hotel around 9 o'clock.
DAY 9
Next we visited the Cathedral of Santa Maria Annunziata, where we saw the bones of the "martyrs of Otranto" who were massacred by Ottoman invaders in 1480. We stopped for insalata caprese and pizza Margarita con prosciutto crudo for lunch at Trattoria Pizzeria La Caletta, overlooking the sea. Then there was some time for shopping before a brief stop for gelato. Soon after 2 o'clock we left Otranto and traveled 6 kilometers north to Baia dei Turchi (Turkey Bay). It was on this beach that the Ottoman Turks invaded in 1480. Shortly before 4 o'clock, we began the drive back to Lecce. We were back in our room about 5 o'clock. At 6:30 p.m. we walked with everyone to La Cucina di Mamma Elvira for our final evening meal together with the group. We began walking back to the hotel about 9 o'clock, in time to pack for departure the following morning.
DAY 10 Our train arrived about 1 p.m. at Roma Termini, the main train station in Rome. From there we walked, pulling our luggage the few blocks to the Best Western Plus Hotel Universo. We were immediately able to check in. By 2 p.m. we six were heading to lunch a few blocks away. We had a delicious meal at L'Angolo di Napoli, the restaurant we chose because it had the Vera Pizza Napoletana certification.
At 6:45 we arrived for our 7:00 reservation at Ristorante Pancrazio dal 1922. We ate at an outside table. We were disappointed that the downstairs dining area was full. The basement of this restaurant contains remains of the Theatre of Pompey, near the site where Julius Caesar was assassinated. We spent a few minutes there after finishing our meals. About 8 o'clock we located a taxi to return us to our hotel. After getting lost, the cab driver eventually got us to our hotel about 8:30.
DAY 11
We arrived at the Orvieto train station about 10:30. We felt very fortunate to immediately find a taxi for all six of us. We reached the Piazza Duomo with plenty of time to spare. If we had arrived after 11:00, we would have lost our reserved tickets. We enjoyed a guided tour into the fascinating Orvieto Underground man-made caves from 11:15 to 12:15.
Next we spent about half an hour exploring inside the Orvieto Duomo. We found an out-of-the-way trattoria for lunch. Then we walked to Piazza Cahen, stopping for gelato along the way. We were on a bus back to the Orvieto train station at 2:45. Our train to Rome left the station about 3:30 p.m. and arrived at Roma Termini about 5 o'clock. We walked to our hotel, then walked back to the train station at 6:30 to enjoy our evening meal at Eataly. With lots of nice shops at the train station, we left the terminal when they closed at 9 o'clock.
DAY 12
After eating lunch, we walked just a couple blocks to Villa D'Este. We enjoyed the many fountains in the gardens there for about an hour. Not finding a taxi or bus, we decided to walk the three-fourths mile to the train station. Our phones showed that we walked 5.8 miles total on this day. It would have been much more fun if Tivoli was more "tourist friendly." We were frequently crossing paths with equally confused tourists about how to get from place to place. The bus drivers told us we were choosing the right buses, yet they had us get off far from where we were going. We were back in Rome around 4:30 and couples went their separate ways. The two of us got some gelato on our way to the hotel. Just the two of us went back to the nearby Vera Pizza Napoletana certified restaurant for supper.
DAY 13
We went to supper with the Crews and Walkers about 6:45 at a restaurant about a half block from the hotel. We were back in our rooms before 8:30.
DAY 14 We then walked to Saint Peter's Square. We were disappointed that the line into the cathedral was too long for us to enter before time to leave. We found a nearby restaurant for lunch at 1:45. Fourteen of us boarded a tour bus at 3 o'clock. Twelve other people in our group had already found alternate transportation. The bus trip took about 30 minutes back to our hotel.
With a 6:30 reservation we walked a couple blocks to eat at Maestro Bistro with the Crews and Walkers.
DAY 15 |
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We landed in Madrid, Spain, at 9:30, forty minutes ahead of schedule. Our next flight was with American Airlines. We departed for the 5,000 mile trip to Dallas-Fort Worth about 1 p.m. Lunch was served about an hour after takeoff. A light meal was served an hour before landing. About 10½ hours after departing Madrid, we were back on U.S. soil about 4 p.m. We took advantage of sitting comfortably in the airlines lounge while waiting for our final flight. We arrived home about 11 o'clock.
No one is the same after experiencing a culture different from their own. |
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